If you get this part wrong, nothing else matters. I know that sounds dramatic, but in my years of building, I have seen beautiful tiny homes where the windows stick, the bathroom door swings open on its own, and the drywall cracks after three months.
A solid build starts with a level foundation.
Why does this happen? Because the builder rushed the foundation. Unlike a traditional home, your foundation isn't a slab of concrete poured by a subcontractor—it is a trailer on wheels that you have to park.
Leveling isn't just about making sure your coffee doesn't slide off the table. It is about structural integrity. If you build on a twisted trailer, you are building a twisted house. Today, I am going to walk you through the heavy lifting: site prep, precision leveling, and anchoring your build so it doesn't rock in the wind.
1. The Pad (Don't Park on Grass)
Before we even touch the trailer jacks, we need to talk about the ground. You cannot build a 10,000lb house on grass or soft dirt. The tires will sink, the jacks will shift, and your house will warp.
For a movable tiny house, you generally have two options for a parking pad:
- Concrete Runner/Slab: The gold standard, but expensive.
- Crushed Gravel (The standard): This is what I use for 90% of builds.
The Gravel Pad Recipe: If you are going the gravel route, don't just dump rocks on the lawn. Remove the top 3-4 inches of organic topsoil, lay down heavy-duty geotextile landscape fabric, and fill with "crusher run" gravel. Finally, rent a plate compactor. Do not skip this.
2. Positioning and The "Rough Level."
Once your trailer is on the pad, maneuvering it is tricky. Remember, once you start building, you cannot easily move it again. Check your sun orientation—if you plan to have solar panels, orient your longest wall to the South. (For layout ideas, check our Designs & Tours section.
The Side-to-Side Level: Before you unhitch your truck, place a 4-foot level across the tongue and rear bumper. If it leans, fix it with the tires by pulling onto heavy-duty leveling blocks.
3. The Precision Leveling (Front-to-Back)
Now the truck is gone, and you are working with the tongue jack. Adjust the front tongue jack until your 4-foot level reads perfect front-to-back.
The Laser Check: Bubble levels are great, but for a 24-foot trailer, a laser level is better. Place the laser at the center of the trailer and measure the distance from the beam to the metal frame at each corner. They should be identical.
4. Support and Anchoring
This is where beginners make a dangerous mistake. They rely on the Scissor Jacks that come welded to the trailer corners.
STOP. Scissor Jacks are for stabilizing (stopping the wiggle). Jack Stands/Piers are for load-bearing.
I recommend supporting the frame manually at four to six points. Place a 12x12 concrete paver on the ground, place a heavy-duty jack stand on top, and use a bottle jack to lift the frame slightly to slide the stand in snug.
Comparison: Choosing Your Support System
| Support Method | Best Used For | Martin's Rating |
|---|---|---|
| Scissor Jacks | Stopping the wobble only | ⭐⭐ |
| 6-Ton Jack Stands | Primary build support | ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ |
| Cinder Block Piers | Permanent foundation | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ |
5. Hurricane Ties & Safety Check
A tiny house on wheels is technically a vehicle. In high winds, it acts like a sail. Use Auger Anchors twisted 3-4 feet into the ground and heavy-duty metal strapping to connect the trailer frame to the earth. (For more on security, see our Build & Tech reviews.
Go to the center of the trailer and jump. If it bounces, check your contact points. A level base makes framing a joy; a crooked base makes it a nightmare.
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